E taea rānei te ngaro o te hihiri o te whakatoi? Koinei tētahi o ngā pātai i ara ake i muri i te kohinga a Balenciaga i mua i te ngahuru 2021, i tukuna hei pukapuka āhua matihiko i tēnei wiki mutunga. I whakaatuhia ki te papamuri o ngā tohu rongonui, ko te kohinga he ranunga o ngā kaupapa taketake o te athleisure me ngā waitohu koi a te kaiwhakahaere auaha a Demna Gvasalia pērā i ngā mōhiti kanohi o mua, ngā putea ringaringa whakairo-ngārara, me ngā koti puffer whakahirahira. Heoi, ahakoa kua noho ngā tohutoro hei mea noa mō ngā kaihoahoa i ēnei rā, ko te mea i mua he hou, he whakahihiri hoki, inaianei kua ahua nui rawa atu.
Mai i te whakaaturanga tuatahi a Gvasalia i te whare ahua Wīwī i te tau 2016, kua iti ake te rongonui o Balenciaga mō tōna ataahua taketake, engari mō tōna āhua whakatoi me te āhua rorirori. Ina hoki, ahakoa he maha ngā kohinga e kite ana i ngā kākahu wahine pērā i ngā kākahu pakihiwi pakari me ngā whakakai whakahihi, i ēnei rā, ko te kupu "Balenciaga" ka whakaaro ake te tangata ki ngā pou Instagram a te waitohu. I tīmata te mahi a Gvasalia me te whakahoutanga nui i runga i ngā pāpāho pāpori, ā, mai i taua wā kua tino whakaputa te waitohu i ngā whakaahua ngaro me te ngaro, me te kore he taitara: he kurī iti i roto i ngā mōhiti kanohi nui, he putea Hourglass whero kua whakairohia ki te moko i waenganui i ngā waewae e rua he moko, he riki me te mata anime kua tuhia me te mowhiti whakahihi karaihe. Kua whakaora anō hoki ia i ngā momo kāhua pērā i te putea "City" a te waitohu, ā, he maha ngā wā ka ātaahua ia i ngā kākahu Balenciaga ki ngā momotuhi me ngā tae waitohu e tata ana ki ngā momotuhi me ngā tae o Ikea, Uber Eats, tae atu ki te pakanga perehitini a Bernie Sanders.
I roto i te kohinga o mua i te ngahuru, i whakaahuahia ki ngā tohu whenua o te ao i roto i te wairua haereere, i kitea ai ngā tohu a Gvasalia i mauria mai e ia mai i Vetements: he āhua nui rawa, he ranunga o ngā kākahu hākinakina me ngā kākahu ōkawa, me ngā koti me ngā kākahu matotoru. Heoi, kāore i rite te hihiko o aua mea ki te tīmatanga o tana noho ki Balenciaga. Ko ētahi tohutoro ahurea rongonui i puta mai i roto i te ahua o ngā tīhāte me ngā hūti Hulk, me te tohu rite ki te GAP i tuhia ko "GAY." I hoki anō a Gvasalia ki ngā momo rongonui pērā i tana tohu "BB", i pania ki ngā pare hau me ngā pōtae peisiporo. Ko te nuinga o ngā putea, ngā kākahu, me ngā kākahu o waho i rite ki ngā tāpiri ki tōna ake āhua whakararuraru, ā, ahakoa i puta mai tētahi whakahoutanga i roto i te ahua o ngā rauemi pumau, kāore i tino kitea tetahi o ngā mea i roto. Ahakoa kua huri ngā taonga hou a Balenciaga ki ngā mea tauhou, kaua ki ngā mea huatau—pērā i ngā rekereke he mea whakapaipai ki ngā māhunga o te waitohu, ngā pūtu ārai, me ngā putea e whai ana i ngā putea kai kuri—ā, he maha ngā wā ka hokona katoatia, te āhua nei he "rahi rawa ngā mea pai".
Tērā pea nā te wā i puta ai tēnei: nā te mea, ko te kohinga "Aria" a te waitohu me Gucci—i tapaina e te tini ko te mahi tahi o te tekau tau—i puta tuatahi i ngā rā kua pahure ake nei i roto i te pahūtanga o te ataahua. Engari ko te wairua whakakatakata, whakakatakata kua tumanakohia e te tini mai i Balenciaga kāore i te tino kitea i roto i te kohinga hou a Gvasalia. Ko te nuinga o ngā mea motuhake i ahua ngoikore ake i te ataahua, me te whakaaro o tēnei kaituhi me pēhea te utu o tētahi takirua tarau tiini waewae tika, tarau wera kore āhua rānei ina tae atu ki te whare Wīwī, kaua ki, hei tauira, ki a Hanes, ki tētahi toa tawhito rānei. Ko ngā mea penei i ngā kākahu putiputi haruru o ngā tau 1980, ngā pūtu koi tae noa ki te huha, me ngā whakapaipai whakanuia he mea whakaora iti, engari i te nuinga o te wā kāore i te ahua hou. I te nuinga o te wā, te ahua nei kāore te kohinga i neke i te ngira, i a ia anō; kāore he mea tino hou, he mea ohorere rānei kāore i whakaaturia e Gvasalia i roto i ngā kohinga o mua, ā, kāore i te mārama mēnā ka taea e ngā kākahu te "mau tonu" me te kore te ingoa o te waitohu papai rongonui e piri ana.
Te āhua nei kei te wehewehe te marea mō ngā mea hou a Balenciaga. Ahakoa i whakanuia e te kairīpoata ahua a José Criales-Unzueta te kōrero mō te waitohu Gap, kāore ia i tino whakamoemiti mō te kohinga. "Kāore au i te harikoa mō Balenciaga. Ko te mea i te tīmatanga i ahua whakararuraru me te wero inaianei kua ahua tumanakohia me te koretake," te kī a Criales-Unzueta i runga i ngā Pakiwaitara Instagram, me te tāpiri atu kāore ngā kākahu "i te whakahihiri, i te hiahia rānei." I whakaae anō hoki a Luke Meagher (arā, Haute le Mode) YouTuber me te kairīpoata ahua i runga i te Instagram kāore te kohinga i "tata ki te hurihanga," ahakoa i kite ia i te aroha o Cristobal Balenciaga ki te rahi.
Kāore hoki i harikoa te hunga mātakitaki. I whakapuaki ētahi i ō rātou whakaaro mō ētahi putea me ngā pūtu i runga i te Instagram me te Twitter, engari i whakamārama whānuitia te korenga o te pai o te kohinga ki a rātou. "I whiriwhiria e koe ētahi o ngā āhua tino pai, engari kāore au i te mōhio he aha taku whakaaro mō te kohinga katoa," te kōrero a tētahi kaiwhakamahi i runga i te pou a Meagher, i te wā i kōrero ai tētahi atu i raro i te pou whāngai Instagram a Criales-Unzueta: "Ko te tohutoro me te whakahua i ngā wā katoa me te kore e whakaatu i ngā kākahu me ngā hua auaha, whakahihiri me te hou kāore e pai ana, ā, kua roa kē te wā kāore."
Ahakoa te huarahi e haere ai a Balenciaga a muri ake nei, e mārama ana ka raru pea te kohinga o mua i te ngahuru i ngā arotake tōmua me te hiahia nui ake o te marea mō ngā kākahu ina tae mai ki ngā toa i tēnei raumati.
Ohauru ki tā mātou pānui ka whai i a mātou i runga i a Pukamata me Instagram kia mau tonu ai koe ki ngā purongo hou katoa o te ao ahua me ngā kōrero pakiwaitara whakamere.
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Te wā tuku: Mei-17-2021